How Text Blaze Helped State Road Animal Hospital Save Over 1,000 Hours

{note: trim=yes}Pet:{formtext: name=pet} Species:{formmenu: default=dog; cat; rabbit; name=species}  Need to be neutered? {formmenu: default=; need to be neutered; name=needs_neutering}{if: species="dog"}{formmenu: default=small/medium breed; large breed; name=breed_size}{endif}{formmenu: default=male; female; name=sex} Vaccinated{formmenu: the first in a series of; their annual; name=vaccination; multiple=yes}{endnote: trim=yes} It was so nice to meet {=pet} today. {if: vaccination="[]"}{else}{=pet} received vaccinations today{if: includes(vaccination,"the first in a series of")} and needs a booster vaccine appointment in 3-4 weeks{endif}.

Although rare, some patients may experience side-effects from vaccination: Redness, mild swelling, and tenderness at the vaccination site, decreased activity levels (fatigue), loss of appetite, low-grade fever. It is also common for a pet to develop a small, firm nodule at the vaccination site. It should begin to shrink and vanish within 14 days. If the swelling lasts longer than 3 weeks or appears to get larger or more painful, contact your veterinarian.

If any of these signs lasts more than 24 hours or if your pet appears extremely uncomfortable, notify your veterinarian.

Less common but more serious side effects can occur within minutes to hours after vaccination. You should seek veterinary care immediately if any of the following occur:

-Collapse/fainting -Difficulty breathing -Persistent and severe coughing -Small, red, raised, itchy bumps over the body (hives) -Swollen/puffy eyes, muzzle, or face -Persistent vomiting or diarrhea

What vaccines are right for {=pet}?

Rabies Rabies virus is spread through the saliva of infected animals or through consumption of nerve tissue. Saliva that contacts breaks in the skin risks infection with Rabies virus. This can affect any mammal, including humans. The most common animals responsible for spreading Rabies are raccoons and bats in Michigan. Clinical signs include disorientation, changes in behavior, drooling, inability to walk normally, aggression, inability to swallow, seizures, and death. {if: species="dog"}Rabies vaccination is required by the State of Michigan for any dog over the age of 6 months and is required for annual licensing. This vaccination must be given with the supervision of a USDA licensed veterinarian. The vaccine can safely be administered to puppies over the age of 12 weeks and initial immunity lasts one year. This vaccine is then boostered every 3 years thereafter.

Distemper-Adenovirus-Parainfluenza-Parvovirus (DAPP) Any dog over the age of 6 weeks should be vaccinated with a DAPP vaccine series. Distemper virus can cause seizures/death. Adenovirus and parainfluenza virus cause upper respiratory infections. Parvovirus causes death of the cells lining the intestines, which can result in signs such as vomiting, diarrhea with or without blood, lethargy, fever, and often death. This vaccine should be administered every 3-4 weeks until a dog is at least 14 weeks old so that immunity lasts for one year. This vaccine is then administered every 3 years.

Leptospirosis Leptospirosis is a potentially fatal disease transmitted by rodents and raccoons, and it is very common in this area. Dogs can become infected and develop leptospirosis if their mucous membranes (or skin with any wound, such as a cut or scrape) come into contact with infected urine, urine-contaminated soil, water, food or bedding; through a bite from an infected animal; by eating infected tissues or carcasses; and rarely through breeding. It is also potentially contagious to humans and other animals; therefore, for {=pet}'s safety and the safety of those around them, vaccination is very important. It causes severe disease of the kidneys and/or liver that can be prevented by the use of this annual vaccine. Infection can cause permanent and life-threatening kidney and liver damage. This vaccine protects from the 4 most common types of leptospirosis in our area, however, there is a rare chance of infection with other types within this family, despite vaccination. This vaccine is boostered annually.

Lyme Lyme disease is caused by the bacterium Borrelia burgdorferi which is transmitted by the deer tick (black-legged tick). Clinical signs for this disease can be mild to severe and may not appear until months after infection. The disease is very prevalent here and we often see coinfection with other tick-borne diseases. Most common signs include fever, loss of appetite, lethargy, lameness (polyarthritis or body soreness). More severe cases may result in immune-mediated diseases such as kidney failure (dogs), polyarthropathy or neurologic symptoms that may result in death in rare cases. We recommend combining high-quality monthly flea and tick preventatives with the Lyme vaccine given annually to reduce the risk of infection.

Bordetella (commonly known as "Kennel Cough" vaccine) Bordetella bronchiseptica is a bacterium that causes upper respiratory tract infections that can progress to pneumonia in severe cases. This is spread through respiratory droplets of coughing dogs who are infected. This vaccination is designed to lessen the severity of symptoms that dogs exhibit.{elseif: species="cat"}

FVRCP All kittens over 6 weeks of age should receive FVRCP every 3-4 weeks until they are 14 weeks of age for initial immunity of 1 year. This vaccine is then administered every 3 years. This vaccine protects against rhinotracheitis virus which causes upper respiratory tract infections, against calicivirus which causes upper respiratory tract symptoms and ulcerations of the eyes, nose, and mouth; and against panleukopenia virus (feline parvo) which causes diarrhea and prevents the bone marrow from producing new white blood cells, platelets, and red blood cells.

Feline Leukemia Virus All kittens over 8 weeks of age who have tested negative for feline leukemia virus should receive FeLV vaccination 3-4 weeks later to establish immunity for 1 year. This vaccine is then boostered 1 year later. If {=pet} consistently remains indoors with no contact with unvaccinated/untested cats or unsupervised time outdoors, then the vaccine can be discontinued. Since feline leukemia virus is ultimately fatal, if {=pet} does have a higher risk of exposure, it is important to continue vaccination to prevent a life-threatening infection.{endif}

What about over-the-counter vaccines? While several vaccines are available over the counter, it is important to remember that vaccines must be refrigerated and are only stable at a certain temperature. Any vaccines that are frozen or above 42°F can be ineffective, leaving your pet at risk of disease and/or death. If the business cannot answer how their vaccines are received when they arrive or how they are stored, you should never assume that they will protect your pet. Many veterinarians do not recognize over-the-counter vaccinations due to reduced regulation of vaccine temperature storage and relaxed protocols in handling.{endif}

DIET: {if: species="rabbit"} Cecotropes Rabbits produce cecotropes, which are a type of feces that is eaten by the rabbit directly from the anus and then digested. These droppings are not made up of waste materials but instead are rich in organisms that have come from the area of the intestinal tract called the cecum. These organisms are packed with nutrients such as amino acids (the building blocks of proteins), fatty acids, and various vitamins. The cecotropes, including the organisms, must be eaten and digested for the rabbit to get these nutrients. In this way, rabbits can extract the maximum nutrients from low-energy food materials. Healthy rabbits will eat their cecotropes directly from the anus, and you won’t see these droppings in the cage. Cecotropes are elongated, greenish-brown in color, coated in mucous, and have a strong odor. If a rabbit eats a diet too rich in nutrients, such as primarily commercial pellets, or a diet excessively high in fruit, a few cecotropes may be found in the cage.

Nutrition Grass hay (timothy, meadow, oat, rye, barley, or Bermuda) is the most important part of your rabbit’s diet and should always be available to them. Grass hay is appropriate for all ages of rabbits, starting at weaning, and is the most important part of maintaining {=pet}'s health.

Legume hay (alfalfa, clover, peas, beans, or peanuts) are loaded with nutrients but have more calories, calcium, and protein than an adult rabbit needs. Feeding only legume hay may lead to gastrointestinal, urinary disorders, and/or obesity.

Green Foods When selecting and using green foods, follow these recommendations:

-Wash any green foods first. -Make sure your rabbit is eating hay well first -Introduce greens a little at a time over several days and watch the stools for any change. -Feed a variety of 2-3 green foods daily -Feed about 1 packed cup of green foods per 2 pounds of body weight at least once a day, or divide this amount into two daily feedings.

Safe greens for rabbits: -Baby greens -Bok Choy -Borage -Basil -Broccoli (leaves and top) -Brussels sprouts -Cabbage (red, green, Chinese) -Carrot/beet tops Celery (leaves are good) -Collard greens -Dandelion greens and flowers -Dock -Endive -Escarole -Kale -Leaf lettuce -Mustard greens* -Parsley (Italian or flat leaf best)* -Radicchio -Romaine lettuce -Swiss chard (any color)* -Watercress

Vegetables marked with an asterisk (*) in the list above have a higher oxalic acid content, and it is recommended they be fed in rotation with other leafy greens. Oxalic acid is a substance found in some fruits and vegetables and can contribute to the formation of kidney stones. Feeding foods containing oxalic acid in small amounts, along with plenty of green, leafy vegetables that do not have oxalic acid, is recommended for your bunny.

Fruits and Other Vegetables (Treat Foods)

Wild rabbits would have access to additional foods such as fruits, vegetables, and flowers, depending on the time of year. Feeding these treats in limited quantities is recommended. You can feed your rabbit one teaspoon per two pounds of body weight per week of any combination of the foods below:

-Apple -Bean or alfalfa sprouts -Blackberries -Blueberries -Cactus fruit -Carrots -Cherries -Cranberries -Green or red bell peppers -Kiwi fruit -Mango -Melons -Papaya -Pea pods (flat, NO peas) -Peach -Pear -Pineapple -Raspberries -Squash -Edible flowers from the garden (organically grown and not from a florist), such as roses, nasturtiums, daylilies, pansies, and snapdragons -Dried fruit can also be used, but since it is so concentrated, use only one-third of the amount as fresh

Forbidden Foods Unfortunately, there are many commercial treat foods sold for rabbits that contain high levels of starch and fat. Although a pet rabbit can eat small amounts of starchy or fatty foods without ill effects, it is recommended to completely avoid high starch and/or fat foods for your rabbit. Examples of high-fat and/or starch foods to avoid include:

-Breads -Cereals -Chocolate -Corn -Nuts -Oats -Peas -Refined sugar -Seeds -Wheat -Any other grains not listed

Commercial Rabbit Pellets Rabbit pellets should generally only comprise a small portion of your pet rabbit’s diet since they often cause obesity and abnormal wear of a rabbit's teeth. Even though rabbits should eat according to their caloric needs, in captivity with boredom, they will overeat pellets if they are provided free choice. Low indigestible fiber content can lead to a sluggish GI tract and eventually more serious GI disease, including ileus or changes or imbalances in gut bacteria. In fact, rabbits on a diet of hay and greens do not need pellets in their diet at all, but if you wish to include some:

The maximum daily amount is 1/4 cup per 4 lbs of body weight. Pellets should be made from grass hays (see list above). The high-calorie content can lead to obesity.

Recovery Food A bunny who is not eating or eating significantly less needs to get veterinary attention within 24 hours. It is important in the event that your rabbit is painful or unable to eat their normal food, that you are able to provide them with a source of nutrition. When a bunny does not want to eat, this can quickly become life-threatening if their gut stops moving, so a recovery food can be offered in a bowl or administered through a syringe. Some rabbits with severe dental disease may need a soft diet long-term following tooth extractions. These recovery foods are available at most pet stores, on Amazon, Chewy, and in our clinic.

Recommended brands: -Sherwood Herbivore -Oxbow Critical Care Herbivore

{else}Feeding an appropriate adult food is critical for musculoskeletal health and heart health. Please ensure that the food is AAFCO APPROVED (complete and balanced for adult {=species}s). We would much rather the product say it was TESTED in accordance with AAFCO feeding guidelines than say it was simply FORMULATED according to those guidelines. Examples of foods that meet these criteria are Purina, Royal Canin, and Hill's Science Diet. These brands are all available in your local pet store. Remember the recommendation on the food bag is a recommendation for the average pet and may be too much or too little based on your pet's normal metabolism. Foods formulated for all life stages are also designed to support growing animals and the recommended feeding amount will be for those growing pets, not an adult at maintenance.{endif} You may have to adjust the food intake to meet {=pet}'s needs as their metabolism changes over time.

Please see this site with charts on how to assess their fitness at home.

{if: species="rabbit"; trim=yes}{else}

DENTAL CARE: Dental care is just as important for our pets' health as it is for ourselves. For an excellent full review of brushing feel free to visit this link. {endif: trim=yes} {if: species="rabbit"}

Cages and Your Rabbit's Environment Bunnies have evolved to run, jump, and move about in large areas. House rabbits should never be confined exclusively to their cage. Exercise, in addition to a healthy diet, is vital for your pet rabbit's health. To confine a rabbit exclusively to a cage can cause several problems:

Obesity – caused most often by a diet too high in calories coupled with lack of exercise

Pododermatitis - inflammation of the feet caused by sitting in a damp or dirty environment

Poor bone density - rabbits that are continually confined to a small cage can exhibit marked thinning of the bones, which may lead to more easily broken bones when handling

Poor muscle tone - if your rabbit can't exercise, the muscles, including the heart, will be underdeveloped and weak

Gastrointestinal and urinary function - a rabbit that sits all day in a cage with little exercise can develop abnormal elimination habits

Behavioral problems - continuously caged rabbits can show a wide range of abnormal behaviors, including lethargy, aggression, continual chewing of the cage bars, chewing fur (obsessive grooming), and destruction of the entire contents of the cage.

A cage can be a home base for part of the day or can be opened all the time within an exercise area. The cage should allow your rabbit to stand up on its hind legs without hitting the top, provide a resting area, and have space for a litter box. It should be easy to clean and indestructible. The floor should be solid but covered with soft padding, such as a foam mat covered with fleece blankets.

Exercise Areas Rabbits need to exercise a few hours daily. The easiest way to accomplish this is to use “x-pens,” which can be found at most pet stores. The pen protects your bunny from furniture, electrical cords, and toxic materials. If you need to protect the floor under your rabbit’s cage indoors, you can use a sheet of no wax flooring. It can be easily cleaned and rolled up when not in use. The soft foam squares used on playroom floors work, but cover the area with fleece blankets for extra softness to keep your bunny from eating the foam.

Safe Spaces Are Bunny-Proof Many rabbits live uncaged in homes with their families, roaming the house and playing at will, returning to their open cages for food and water.

Litter Boxes When beginning training, confine your pet in a small area, either in a cage or a blocked-off section of the room, and place a litter box in the corner; try to pick the corner your pet has previously used for their toilet. To encourage defecation, placing a few droppings in the litter box on top of hay can sometimes be helpful. Change the hay daily & consider having a hay box on the side of the enclosure to allow access to unsoiled hay. In exercise areas, provide one more litter box than the number of rabbits you have.

Pelleted litter is the best for rabbits and is preferred over kitty litter and wood shavings, which are considered toxic. Pelleted litter is non-toxic and digestible if eaten. It draws moisture away from the surface, keeping it drier, controls odor well, and can be composted. Do not use clay or clumping kitty litter, which, if eaten, can cause intestinal impactions and death.

Enrichment Rabbits get a fair amount of mental exercise from their diet of grass hay/greens, but rabbits like to chew. Give them branches from untreated trees, wooden chew toys designed for birds, or unfinished, unpainted wicker. Rabbits also enjoy things that move and can be chewed, such as empty paper towel rolls, small empty cardboard boxes, small air-filled balls, and stacking-type toys made for young children. Toys can be made more interesting by hiding greens inside empty toilet paper rolls and old tissue boxes. Stuff hay in your bunny’s favorite hiding area. Giving your rabbit a sense that they are foraging for food is an excellent mental activity.

Handling The handling technique called a "burrito" can be used when rabbits need to be safely restrained. Depending on how calm your pet is, there are several ways to pick up your rabbit. The main thing to remember is to always support the hindquarters to prevent serious spinal injuries. Please click on this link for a how-to.{endif}

{if: needs_neutering="need to be neutered"} Neutering (Spaying / Castrating) {=pet} can be safely neutered {if: species="cat"}any time after they weigh 4 lbs{elseif: species="rabbit"}any time after 4-6 months of age{elseif: breed_size="small/medium breed"}any time after 6 months of age{else: trim=yes}any time after 10-12 months of age{endif}. {if: sex="female"}Spaying eliminates the risk of accidental pregnancy, difficult birth, eclampsia, pyometra (uterine infection), and reduces the risk of breast cancer that comes with each heat cycle. Sexual maturity and heat cycles can occur as early as 6 months. If {=pet} has their first heat cycle, record the first day you notice spotting and the last day. This information will help us schedule when it is safest to proceed with surgery. {if: breed_size="large breed"}There are two different ways to spay a dog: the traditional open abdomen spay and a laparoscopic spay (where 2-3 porthole incisions are made). The advantage of the laparoscopic spay is that the healing time is usually quicker, the procedure includes less patient bleeding, and the incisions are smaller.{endif}{else: trim=yes}Castrating reduces roaming behaviors, accidental pregnancy, testicular cancers, and reduces the risk of prostate infections over the course of life.{endif} {endif} {key: enter}{key: enter}I look forward to seeing {=pet} thrive.